Pesto (Traditional)

Kummer argues, persuavily, that the sine qua non of traditional, Genoese pesto is not the local basil but the object from which its name is derived, the mortar and pestle.

Note well the mix of cheeses. The issue is not that two cheeses are used but that one is salty and the other sweet.

2 c.(packed) fresh basil leaves 1 large clove garlic
large pinch of salt 3 T. pine nuts (or 2 T. walnuts)
3 T. cheeses parmigiano reggiano 2 T. pecorino sardo (or Spanish manchego)
3 T. olive oil  
  1. Working with only the smaller leaves (inch and a half or less), rinse them, pat them dry, stem them and remove thick ribs from the basil. Shred the leaves by hand.

  2. Start with the garlic. Place it and the salt in a mortar. Use the pestle to reduce the garlic to a smooth paste. Add the nuts, one tablespoon at a time, and pound into a thick mass. Add the basil, about two tablespoons at a time, and pound into the mix. The test is whether you can distinguish individual pieces of basil.

  3. The cheeses come next (unless, of course, you are planning to store the pesto for more than a week before using it, in which case you defer adding the cheeses). To stir them into the mix, you can use a spoon. Then, the olive oil.

  4. To serve, mix the pesto with some of the pasta water (3 or 4 to 1 ratio of pesto to water) and toss with the pasta. Be sure to have generous quantities of Parmesan and fresh ground pepper available.

1 cup   

Source: Corby Kummer, The Atlantic Monthly, August 1998


 
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