German Potato Salad

Before potato salad was a cliche at American picnics, a very different kind of potato salad was a staple of German cooking. Corby Kummer reminded us of how the German version was prepared. For reasons of taste, he insists that the potatoes should be cooked whole and unpeeled. For reasons of visual aesthetics, he recommends that you let the potatoes cool before slicing them. Heating the dressing, he argues, will compensate in terms of how much dressing the potatoes will absorb.

Kummer allows for lots of variations in the dressing: using broth instead of water; adding mustard, diced and cooked bacon, and/or diced pickles; garnishing with dill or chives; using white pepper versus black and red- versus white-wine vinegar. The recipe below uses the options we find most appealing.

1. Cook the potatoes in boiling, salted water, about 30 minutes. Gently remove from the water and allow to cool before slicing (1/4 inch thick).
   
   
2. Simmer together the stock, vinegar, and oil. Add in the sugar, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil for a minute or so. Turn the heat way down as you add the onion. Remove the dressing from the heat.
   
   
3. Toss the potato slices and capers with the dressing. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours.
   
   
4. Before serving, bring the salad to room temperature and garnish with the chives.

6 servings   

Source: Corby Kummer, The Atlantic Monthly, September 2001