Leek and Sweet Potato Puree

We had seen some very attractive yams at the store and written them into the menu for a dinner with some special friends--without giving much thought to how they would be prepared. Nearly an hour's research into virtually every cookbook on the shelf produced dozens of observations on the differences between true yams and "American" yams and not a single recipe for true yams. Equally important, most of the sweet potato recipes were for casseroles or, more commonly, candied or brandied potatoes. Not what we had in mind.

Then we encountered a recipe for potatoes--presumably "white potatoes"--and leeks. This was more what we were looking for, so we substituted the yams, made a subtle change here and there, and . . . WOW!

1. Clean the yams and cut them into small pieces (without peeling). Cover them with cold water in a large saucepan. Bring the water to a boil. Cook until tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
   
   
2. Meanwhile, chop and rinse the leeks. Melt a tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet, and add the leeks. Cover closely and cook, stirring frequently, until the leeks soften (about 10 minutes).
   
   
3. Drain the potatoes, return them to the saucepan and mash with a ricer. Add the leeks and mix thoroughly. Heat the cream to a near boil in the microwave oven. Stir into the potatoes.
   
   
4. Add the spices and stir. Heat briefly and serve.
   
   

6 servings   

Source: Craig Claiborne, The New York Times Cookbook